I jumped my 4runner this afternoon, got a big giant spark, now all the electrical is dead. I'm 99.9% sure I had the correct links with the jumper cables but I'm not 100% sure I didn't leave the key in the dead 4runner on ACC. I grounded to the lift hook on the engine block on the dead runner, got a shower of sparks and some pitting/scorching on the hook. Then I stuck the ground on the battery, got another spark and got a good connection. Got in the truck, it's dead.

OK, so I'm feeling like an idiot, but I need to work this problem. I guess the first place to check is the fusible link between the (+) and the fuse box. For starters, how do I open the fuse box in the engine bay? I understand there's supposed to be tabs or something, then it opens up, but I can't get it to budge and I'm afraid I'll break it.

I could really use a break on this repair. First my alternator went out, so I got it fixed. Then I yanked the wires from my crankshaft position sensor and had to fix that (soldered it back together). Now this.

 

you probally knocked something loose or the impact broke something is it just clicking or does the eng turn over. if it turns over its probally going to be fuel ign or (compression but dont think that its going to be the problem) if its clicking battery dead starter not turning bad connection at starter or ign to starter using a dmm would really hep in finding a elec problem well got to go to work let me know

 

I'm not following your questions. It was turning over (slowly) but not running after the alternator repair. I figured the battery wasn't fully charged, so I went to jump it. After the jump, the electrical is completely out. I've got nothing.

 

This holds true for your 2.7L Runner, may also work for your 3.4, but not sure on that.

There is either an 80A or a 100A Fuse in the Fuse Box in the cabin that I blew once when changing the alternator with the battery still connected 'cuz I was in a hurry, etc., etc. I'll bet thats your problem.

Anyhow the fuse box needs to come out for you to change that fuse as its bolted in place. The fuse box is kinda two part, like the top slips over the bottom and seals it. There are bolts (2 IRRC) maybe take the battery out or look on the sides, bottom of the fuse box. Then there are some tabs that when depressed let the top of the fuse box slide off. Might be just as simple as squeezing the sides of the box. I remember it being really simple once I figured it out....sorry I'm not in front of the car right now.

After that, then you should have access to the 80A Fuse and be able to unbolt it from the Fuse Box.

Good Luck.

 

You can't diagnose an electrical problem in a car with a dead battery. Go get a charger, or take the battery out and get it charged. Then you can begin to diagnose the problem in an organized fashion. Some links that may help:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec03.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec04.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec05.pdf

 

Sorry man, not familiar with the 99's so I can't help with where the release tabs are on the fuse box, but it sounds like a bad connection. check the battery terminals for corrosion and make sure they're tight (snug, doesn't have to be crack-head tight)

What happened that made you need to jump start it? You put the red jumper cable clamp to the battery red/+ terminal and black jumper clamp to the black/- battery terminal, correct?

I think he jump started the battery, not jumped the truck as in "got big air"

 

This is a little strange. I pulled off the battery leads after what I talked about in the first post. Then I reattached them and this time, all of the other electronics came back on. The battery posts and leads were clean and tight when I jumped it and got all the sparks, earlier, so I don't know what reset between then and now. The starter will not turn over at all (I just hear a quiet hum when I turn the key). I took the battery to AutoZone this evening, and it came back at 6 volts and the machine said "CHARGE AND RETEST", so I'm leaving it on the charger at 2 Amps overnight.

Battery is a Duralast and was bought 6/08.


This is a longish story, but here's the background, corax:

My alternator died on me, so I had it rebuilt last week. When I reinstalled it, I accidentally pulled out the wires on the crankshaft position sensor (behind the alternator), so I pulled off the alternator and alternator bracket, repaired the CPS, and reinstalled everything. The truck was turning over slowly, so that's why I went to jumpstart it.

The battery has seen some tough times over the last week or so. Last week, after I had the alternator tested at AutoZone, I couldn't get the truck to start, so the AutoZone guy jumped me with one of those battery packs. He managed to cross the cables when he jumped me. (I learned my life lesson then: never let someone else jump your vehicle.) When I got home, I put the battery on the charger at 6 amps for about 7 hours. Then, tonight, I still had a low battery and tried to jump it, which led to all the stuff I described in the first post. I have a feeling the battery's had it, but I'm going to have it retested tomorrow at AutoZone.

 

So it's a duralast battery and autozone crossed the wires, and now it seems to not hold a charge?

Duralast is the autozone brand. Go back and demand a new one. They may not replace other brands, but they can replace duralast because it is their brand; I have been through this with autozone, though not on a battery. They refused to replace it until I said that it was duralast, then the manager said "oh, ok, go ahead and replace it then". They may push back at you about replacing a 2 year old battery, but they can definitely do it, and you shouldn't pay anything more for it.

That way at least you can eliminate the battery like the durk said.

 

If they crossed the wires I would definitely say something about it. If you get your battery tested and it comes back bad I would have them replace it. You shouldn't pay for someone else's stupid mistakes. If your like me you pay for enough of your own.

 

I charged the battery all night and took it into AutoZone. It tested bad, so I got a new one under the warranty (it was pretty new). I installed the new battery and it started right up. I guess the old battery was just pooped out from the bad alternator and possibly the jump off, but either way you look at it, I think things are good for now. Thanks, guys!

 

Glad you are going again, but I would throw a voltmeter on there and hope to see ~13.7 Volts with the engine running before I had a party. Easier to test it now than waiting until you have a dead battery again.

 

The alternator was just rebuilt last week, so I imagine it's working fine, but I'll take a look at the voltage on the new battery. It's easy enough to check it out.

 

It was that 'big spark' part I was thinking about....

 

Yeeah, good point there...

 

Wow i work salvage and 90% of batteries that go dead sittin in a car waitin to be proscessed are duralast or superstart and Duralast is one of the worst batteries to waste money on if you have to replace it get somthing decent even if its just an everstart its no wonder your truck is dead by the way once the duralasts go dead theyre usually ruined for good

 

Glad to see you got it started and running again.

Most batteries will sustain long term damage if the voltage dips below 12V (which is 75% discharged). Do it enough times and eventually it'll stop holding any charge. So when you said yours was at 6V, I knew it was pretty much crapped out.

There are only 3 companies that make the majority of the batteries in the US: Johnson Controls, Exide and Delphi. All it takes is a stick on label to make it a different brand. Johnson Controls makes Diehard (Sears), Duralast (AutoZone), Interstate, Kirkland (Costco), Motorcraft (Ford), and some EverStart batteries. I'm thinking it probably has more to do with how these cars were taken care of than who made the battery - if someone is going to AutoCrap for a discount battery to keep their car on the road for a little longer before it gets shipped to the salvage yard, they're probably not keeping the terminals and top of battery clean (batteries will discharge between terminals through the scum on top of a battery) or they have other problems with charging, etc

 

ohhh that kind of "jumped it"... it took about 6 replies to get the idea of you flying off a sand dune out of my head.

 

Brother, I've never even seen a real sand dune (what we have here on the east coast hardly counts)! lol